APPAREL DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT INTERNSHIP- ASMARA GROUP
During my internship with Asmara in Bogor, Indonesia, I gained hands-on experience working within a global apparel supply chain, collaborating closely with design, development, and production teams. This experience deepened my understanding of how thoughtful design decisions translate into real garments—from concept through manufacturing—while reinforcing my interest in sustainable, intentional apparel.
Bogor, Indonesia is a tropical city shaped by daily rainfall, dense greenery, and active street life. Approximately one hour from Jakarta, (the world’s largest metropolitan area), Bogor exists in close proximity to dense traffic, commercial centers, and rapid urban movement.
ABOUT ASMARA
Asmara is an international sourcing platform with 17 offices worldwide, supporting apparel design and product development from concept through delivery. They work with global brands and emerging start-ups—including Tom Tailor, Black Diamond, Abercrombie & Fitch, MEC, and Huckberry—to develop climate-conscious, high-quality products.
Asmara connects designers, manufacturers, and suppliers across the apparel supply chain. Within this network, they work with innovative sustainable materials, honor traditional craftsmanship through in-house sampling, and use digital tools such as CLO to visualize how garments will drape and perform before production.
Asmara's collaborative approach supports thoughtful design, responsible sourcing, and long term partnerships across apparel, activewear, accessories, and beyond.
HANDS ON DESIGN AND MATERIAL EXPLORATION
During my time at Asmara, I strengthened my apparel design skills within the outdoor apparel space and discovered a particular passion for fabrics, trims, and finishes. I loved spending time in the sample lab, attending fabric and design meetings, and discussing upcoming seasonal trends, all of which gave me a deeper understanding of how design, development, and merchandising intersect.
I also gained hands-on experience creating tech packs for various brand clients, and I’m grateful to my coworkers and the quality control development team for helping me organize and improve my workflow. One of my favorite projects was designing beanies for Magellan Outdoors—I really enjoyed how creative I was able to be with them and found that process really quite fun.
BLACK DIAMOND X ASMARA
The Space Between Crag + City
The Rise of Gorp Core
Gorp core has evolved beyond a fleeting trend; it represents a lifestyle that bridges urban environments and the backcountry. Rooted in the heritage of durable outdoor gear, yet influenced by the clean lines of contemporary streetwear, it reflects a generation that values versatility. Today's consumers move seamlessly through different worlds- balancing early morning workouts, demanding schedules at work or school, and evenings spent outdoors or in the city. They seek connection, freedom of movement, and the sense of discovery that comes with climbing new routes, exploring trails, or simply embracing an active daily rhythm.
This is where fashion and function intersect. Apparel must not only perform- offering weather protection, comfort, and durability- but also carry a sense of style that resonates across environments. For some, highly technical aesthetics embody authenticity and expertise; for others, a more understated design allows for easier transitions from outdoor pursuits to everyday life.
@Flojorobinson via Pinterest
And Wander Spring 2021
Current BD MARKET landscape + gaps
Black Diamond women's line FW 2025
Tops Strengths
__Sleek silhouettes
__PFAs free DWR treated shells
__Durability
__High performance
__Organic cotton options
__Quality comfort
Bottoms Strengths
__PFAs free DWR treated synthetics
__Feature detailing
__Durability
__High performance
__Organic cotton / cotton-blended options
__Mobility
Black Diamond Women's Gaps
__Pant length inconsistencies (short/tall climbers under deserved)
__Limited women's button down variety (only plaid flannels)
__Under use of natural fibers in tops and mid-layers
BLACK DIAMOND HEX
Black Diamond HEX Strengths
__Organic 100% cotton twills, knits, and canvas fabrics
__Gender neutral silhouettes
__Brand and cultural alignment
__Style + branding with simple graphics
__Versatility
__Potential for upward brand stretch
Black Diamond x HEX line FW 2025
Black Diamond x HEX, 2025.
Black Diamond x HEX line FW 2025
Black Diamond HEX GAPS
__No heavy outerwear/shells/insulation
__Unclear tech specs
__Fit and sizing unknowns
__Risk of overlap (potential confusion for when to use HEX vs. BD)
Black Diamond x HEX, 2026.
PERSONAL SURVEY FEEDBACK
42 participants.
29 questions.
24 females, 18 males.
Locations: Alaska, Colorado, Hawaii, Idaho, Illinois, Indonesia, Italy, Maine, Michigan, Massachusetts, Utah, and Virginia.
Ages 18-54
I created a survey to gather real insights from people who climb and hike about their clothing preferences, habits, and values. I asked questions in a few key areas:
__Demographics — basic info like age, location, gender, and current financial status to understand who is responding and how that might influence apparel choices.
__Activity and Experience — what types of climbing and hiking people do most often, how frequently they participate, and their self-rated experience level.
__Brand and Style Preferences — which outdoor apparel brands people currently wear and feel drawn to, and what styles or specific pieces they consider essential for fall/winter climbing and hiking.
__Priorities when Choosing Gear — how important different factors are when selecting clothing (like comfort, performance, durability, sustainability, weather resistance, and price).
__Sustainability & Materials — familiarity with natural or bio-based fibers, interest in purchasing apparel made with these materials, and concerns about performance or functionality.
__Product-Specific Feedback — what people value most in specific product categories (like bouldering pants or long-sleeve climbing tops) and open-ended feedback on how outdoor apparel could be improved.
Film photo by Abby Wilson
My goal was to collect honest opinions on what outdoor enthusiasts truly want and value so that my design decisions could be better informed and more aligned with real consumer needs.
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Film photo by Abby Wilson
Survey insights
Key Insights from Survey
Fit & Sizing
Women want better size inclusivity. More petite and athletic fits that move beyond the "tall, slim" outdoor standard.
Mobility & Comfort
Clothing should allow full range of motion for climbing and hiking, with stretch fabrics, gusseted designs, and waistbands that don't bunch under harnesses.
Style & Versatility
Users want pieces that blend performance and lifestyle: more prints and fashionable options that work beyond the trail.
Layering & Functionality
Lightweight, breathable layers that adapt to changing conditions and combine durability, weather resistance, and comfort are highly desired.
Materials & Details
Preference for sustainable, durable materials such as hemp, with thoughtful adjustability (cinch hems, flexible waistbands, and gussets) to enhance comfort and longevity.
My friend Lauren lead climbing up Logan canyon
@artsaesthetix via Pinterest, 2026
Understanding the target consumer
demographics, psychographics, behaviors, and human factors.
Activities
__Hiking
__Trail running
__Rock climbing
__Skiing
values
__Performance
__Minimalism
__Sustainability
__Versatility
pain points
__Length issues
__Lack of versatile tops
__Limited natural fibers in performance wear
__Clothing bunching with harnesses
lifestyle
Active, on the go, multi-sport woman; clothing must work in urban and mountain settings.
mountain minded. and city ready.
Rooted in the mountains and always moving. She spends her days climbing, hiking, and chasing light through a film lens. Her style blends performance with quiet intention - minimal, functional, and inspired by Japanese design. She lives for the in-between moments: coffee at the crag, city nights after long days outside.
@gorpcoretex via Pinterest, 2025.
@isabelcarv0 via Pinterest 2026.
W Concept Global via Pinterest, 2025.
MARKET REsEARCH
Technical casual (gorp core), hiking, bouldering, lifestyle pieces
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KEY OBSERVATIONS + TRENDS
Goldwin, Montbell, & And Wander
__Blends high-performance outdoor gear with fashion-forward design
__Uses mostly synthetic fabrics (Pertex, Cordura) for durability and weather resilience
__Silhouettes are relaxed, oversized, and utilitarian- very gorp core inspired
__Earthy tones with bright accents; strong city-to-mountain versatility
__Maintains a more classic, functional outdoor identity
__Uses natural fibers more often, especially merino wool in base layers
__Outerwear remains performance-driven with ultralight synthetics
__Fits are more tailored and conservative- less oversized or street-inspired
__Focuses on minimalism and refined technical design
__Utilizes triple-woven polyester, Polartec™ fleece, and wool jersey
__Incorporates innovation such as Brewed Protein™ fiber for reduced environmental impact
__Structured yet relaxed silhouettes; modern and clean aesthetic
OVERALL-
__All three brands prioritize technical performance and innovation in fibers
__Limited use of natural fibers across collections- mostly synthetic or blended materials
__And Wander and Goldwin have a more relaxed, utilitarian, and fashion-forward look
__Montbell stays true to classic, fitted staples that emphasize heritage and functionality
There's an industry gap for high-performance pieces made with natural or biodegradable fibers that still meet technical standards.
MAterials REsEARCH
NAtural fibers and more responsible synthetics
While researching fibers for this project, I spent a lot of time in Asmara’s textile library, going through swatches from suppliers across Asia. I had the opportunity to sit in on meetings with fabric mills and merchants, where I could see, touch, and compare materials in real time. That experience helped me understand how different fiber blends and percentages can completely change the feel, performance, and purpose of a fabric, as well as how to better identify and differentiate synthetic fibers. Outside of Asmara, I also looked to Performance Days and the Functional Fabric Fair to stay up to date on material innovations and emerging developments in functional textiles.
DESIGN INTENT MOVING FORWARD
Black Diamond's Women's LINE 2028
__Focus on sustainability and use of natural fibers that perform in outdoor conditions
__Integrate materials such as hemp, Sorona, and merino wool in pieces for comfort, performance, and stronger environmental responsibility
__Use recycled synthetics instead of virgin polyester and virgin nylon
__Embrace a relaxed, fashion-forward aesthetic- merging functionality with modern style
__Capture the essence of a "mountain meets city" lifestyle by designing versatile pieces suitable for a day of hiking/climbing and effortlessly transitioning into an urban setting afterwards
@calistakerba via Pinterest, 2026
Trend research + inspiration
Color predictions, inspiration, mood boards, geographic influence, forms + details
RUSSET
PEACEFUL LILAC
MAIZE
DEEP GREEN
WGSN and Coloro name key color predictions for Fall/Winter 2027-2028.
ASIAN FASHION
__Experimental forms + layering
__Minimalism + maximalism
__Streetwear emerging from pop culture and Harajuku
nineties and y2k
Birth of the Urahara movement
backstreets of harajuku
Key pioneers: Nigo (BAPE), Jun Takahashi (Undercover), Hiroshi Fujiwara
Influences: Hip-hop, punk, surf, skate culture, and American brands such as Levi's
Evolution: Creatives developed their own unique Japanese streetwear style- different from American streetwear
Gender shift: Though streetwear started as a male-dominated scene, by the late 90's more women joine in
Women's impact: Embraced oversized styles and moved away from traditional feminine silhouettes
Source: "Japanese Streetwear: Tokyo Fashion Subculture," Jane Pipkin, 2023.
black diamond heritage
Outdoor recreation archive, Utah State University
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FIndings from BD's ArchiveD catalogs
__Many tops and tees were made from natural fibers, reflecting a more traditional approach to outdoor apparel
__Bottoms featured a mix- some made with natural fibers, others made with synthetic Schoeller Dynamic fabrics for added performance
__Tees showcased the old Black Diamond logo and bold graphic designs, giving them a distinctly retro, nostalgic feel
nineties and y2k
Form + detail inspiration
Tees, field shirts, and bottoms
Mood boards
lifestyle + materials
Bouldering with friends, chalk dust in the air, the rhythm of laughter and movement. Matchas after the session, sunlight fading, and time slowing down. Skating through the city, sharing a snack on a cliff, and letting the road home mark the end of a good day outside.
lifestyle
Warm, grounded, and nature-connected. Merino wool and hemp blends. Earth-focused. Good for base layers, mid-layers, and bottoms.
natural fibers
Recycled, resilient, and thoughtfully engineered. Designed to protect against the elements while reducing environmental impact.
Synthetic fibers
DESIGN Thinking + CONCEPTS
Design goal, CtQ's, Ideation, refinement, development
design goal
Design four silhouettes that deliver in rugged environments while seamlessly fitting into modern, social spaces.
DESign opportunity
Women's FW 2028 core line
Model Sam Laban, photographed by Marcin Kempski for Vogue China
The women's FW 2028 collection presents an opportunity to refine Black Diamond's core apparel with a focus on comfort, mobility, and durability- all qualities climbers and outdoor enthusiasts value. Rooted in community feedback and material research, this conceptual line aims to blend performance with sustainability, using natural fibers such as merino wool, hemp, and organic cotton blends alongside responsible synthetics.
By reimagining four essential fall staples- a long sleeve layering top, wool field shirt, durable climbing pants, and a versatile technical skirt- this collection sets the foundation for a thoughtful, futuristic direction for Black Diamond Women's. Each piece is designed to move seamlessly between crag, camp, and everyday life, reflecting the brand's authentic heritage while pushing toward a more sustainable future.
Black Diamond Women's, FW 2025.
Secondary design opportunities
1. Technical hiking skirt (lifestyle hybrid piece)
Purpose: Bridges performance and everyday wear. Ideal for climbers and hikers who want functional style off the wall
2. Heritage-inspired graphic elements
Purpose: Reintroduce nostalgic brand charm while celebrating Black Diamond's legacy. Could incorporate silk screen printed or embroidery placement of retro-inspired graphics or archival logos on tees, layering pieces, and hangtags
Women's FW 2028 collection
Outdoor Recreation Archive,
Black Diamond, 1998
Salomon Spring/Summer 2024 photographed by Simon Birk in Dorga, Italy
Film photo by Abby Wilson
Critical to quality
Women's FW 2028 collection
Comfort + Mobility: Clothing must move with the body through dynamic climbing and approach movements.
Durability: Materials need to withstand abrasion from rock surfaces and repeated wear.
Sustainability: High interest in natural and recycled synthetics
Versatility: Climbers value staples for fall- a base layer/long sleeve, durable bottoms, and a light to mid weight field shirt for variable weather
Ideation
The initial ideation for the four Black Diamond conceptual pieces started in my Asmara handbook during in-between moments—lunch breaks, downtime between tasks, and quick pauses throughout the day. I sketched constantly with pen on paper, rapidly working through ideas over and over again. This process allowed me to explore a wide range of silhouettes, details, and functionality without overthinking, helping the strongest concepts naturally rise to the surface.
Women's FW 2028 collection
refining concepts
Women's FW 2028 collection
Development
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tech packs, patternmaking
Development
prototyping
The development phase of these four pieces was my favorite and involved frequent check-ins with Bu Ratna and her development team throughout sampling. We reviewed patterns, trims, and sewing order in detail to make sure each design translated clearly from concept to construction. This image captures me walking through my tech packs and construction details in the sample room with Bu Ratna as the designs moved into development.
A trims form is provided to the sample room team downstairs. Having physical copies of trims and construction details helps ensure each piece is produced accurately and reduces confusion after the initial sample meeting.
The tech pack in this photo is one of mine being referenced.
Bu Tri sewing the field shirt
The tech pack in this photo is one of mine being referenced.
Development
KEy takeaways
Asmara in house sampling
One of my biggest takeaways from in-house sampling at Asmara was how valuable it is to be closely involved in every step of the process. Throughout construction, the seamstresses consistently referenced my tech packs to check measurements and construction details, making adjustments as needed to ensure accuracy. I was often asked questions around pocket placement, hems, and stitch types, which made the process feel highly collaborative. Being able to watch a garment come together in real time—from pattern to final stitch—deepened my understanding of sewing order, fit, and construction, and reinforced how strong the final product becomes when design and development work closely together.
BLACK DIAMOND X ASMARA
The space between crag and city
fall/winter 2028
Product photography for these four final pieces is presented through a mix of digital and film. Digital imagery was photographed by me, while film photography was captured by Abby Wilson and Sophi Andrus.
Although these garments were originally designed for Black Diamond’s women’s line, the silhouettes and fit naturally translated across bodies. Select pieces are shown on multiple models to highlight their versatility and subtly unisex nature.
A second, separate photoshoot was created to further explore the versatility of the collection. One model wears three key pieces — the Field Shirt, Tech Skirt, and Hemp Pants — styled during a hike in Salt Lake City and then transitioned directly into an urban setting.
My goal for this shoot was to highlight the effortless crossover of the garments, emphasizing their ability to function seamlessly from mountain environments to everyday city wear.
Design outcomes + alignment
REflection
Crossover functionality
Each piece was designed to transition seamlessly from outdoor use to daily city wear, eliminating the need to change between activities.
Intentional design details
Thoughtful pocket placement, gussets, and simplified construction were used to enhance durability without overcomplicating the garments.
Fit & silhouette
I focused on balanced proportions and comfortable fits that allow for movement while still feeling polished and well-designed for physical activity and the elements.
Material choices
Sustainable and durable fabrics were prioritized to align with longevity, environmental responsibility, and real-world use.
Overall cohesion
The collection feels unified through a shared aesthetic that blends technical inspiration with a modern, wearable look.
Areas for improvement
__Refining patterning and fit through wear-testing, especially in high active movement scenarios and different climates
__Exploring more innovative fabric technologies that enhance performance while maintaining sustainability goals
__Further simplifying certain design elements to improve manufacturability and cost efficiency. Some design details could be simplified to improve scalability for production.
GRATEFUL FOR ASMARA
This project, along with my time at Asmara, deepened my understanding of how much truly goes on behind the scenes when creating apparel for a brand. Designing the garment is only one part of the process—there are many skilled hands involved in bringing a piece to life. Seeing the seamstresses work with such precision and care was really impactful to me. Their craftsmanship highlighted that there are real people behind every stitch, each with their own lives, families, and technical skill. Being able to connect with them and share our skills together made the design process feel far more human and collaborative, and gave me a deeper respect for the work that often goes unseen by the customer.
From a design perspective, this project reinforced the importance of intentional decision-making. Fit, fabric, construction, and silhouette all need to work together to support both function and aesthetics—especially when designing crossover pieces meant to transition seamlessly from mountain environments into everyday city wear. I learned that strong design lives in the balance between performance and wearability, rather than leaning too heavily toward one or the other.
I also gained a deeper appreciation for testing, iteration, and seeing the product come to life in real environments. I found a lot of joy in photographing the final pieces and filming them being worn and tested outdoors. Being able to take the garments into the field, watch models move, climb, and hike in them, and capture that process visually helped me better understand how my designs performed and how they were experienced by the wearer. Field testing not only informed potential improvements, but also strengthened my connection to the pieces and the stories behind them.
Working within a conceptual Black Diamond framework also strengthened my understanding of brand alignment—how to go about creating designs that feel innovative while still honoring a brand’s core values of durability, simplicity, and performance. Overall, this experience helped me grow into a more thoughtful, systems-oriented designer—one who considers not just how a garment looks, but how it performs, lasts, and respects the people involved in making it.
cheers to a fantastic three months- learning, creating, and growing.